Doors sag because of gravity and a short screw. The top hinge carries most of the weight, and the screws that came with it often only reach the thin door jamb, not the framing behind it. Over the years they loosen, the door tilts, and the top corner starts to rub.
Diagnose first
Close the door slowly and look at the gap around it. It should be even, about the thickness of a nickel, all the way around.
- Gap wide at the top hinge side, tight at the top latch side: the top hinge has loosened.
- Rubbing at the bottom latch side: the bottom hinge is loose or the door has sagged.
- Even gap, but the latch misses the strike: the strike plate is out of line.
- Sticks only in humid weather: the wood has swollen.
Tighten the hinges
Check every screw
Open the door and tighten all hinge screws on both the door and the jamb.
Replace a short screw
If a screw spins without tightening, remove one of the screws on the jamb side of the top hinge (the one closest to the stop) and drive a 3-inch screw of the same head size. It pulls the hinge, and the door, back toward the framing.
Fix stripped holes
For holes that will not hold, glue wooden toothpicks or a golf tee into the hole, snap them flush, let it dry, and re-drive the screw.
Adjust the strike plate
Rub lipstick or a dry-erase marker on the latch bolt and close the door. The mark shows where the latch hits.
- Off by an eighth of an inch or less: enlarge the strike opening with a metal file.
- Off by more: unscrew the strike, extend the mortise with a chisel, fill the old screw holes, and reset it.
- Door rattles when closed: bend the small tab inside the strike opening slightly toward the stop with a screwdriver.
If it is swelling
Wood doors absorb moisture through any unpainted edge, especially the top and bottom, which are often never painted. If it sticks only in summer, wait for a dry spell, sand the tight spot lightly, then seal all six sides of the door with paint or clear finish.
Planing: the last step
If the door still rubs after the hinges are tight, mark the tight area and take the door off its hinges. In a home built before 1978, test the paint for lead before planing or sanding it. Plane from the edges toward the center, removing as little as possible. Then seal the bare wood. A door planed in summer can end up with a large gap in winter, so take it slowly.
Common questions
Why did all my doors start sticking this year?
Seasonal humidity is the usual reason. If it comes with new wall cracks or sloping floors, have the foundation looked at.
Can I shim a hinge instead?
Yes. A thin cardboard shim behind a hinge leaf moves the door away from that side. It is a good fix when screws are already tight.
Our guides are general information for typical homes. Codes, permits and conditions vary, so check local rules, and leave gas, main electrical panel and structural work to a licensed professional.
